Almost Time to Leave

This will be my last blog entry from Ghana before I head home to the United States on Monday. It’s hard to believe that my time here in Ghana is coming to an end- it’s very surreal. It feels like the last few weeks have been filled with good-byes as I bid farewell to friends I’m made here- both Ghanaians and foreigners.

I feel like there is so much to say, but I don’t know how to put it all into a blog entry right now. The past few months have been filled with many ups and downs, fun times, frustrating times, and what seems like too many learning experiences to count.

There will be so much that I’ll miss- delicious mangos from the neighborhood fruit stand, getting chicken and rice for lunch from the really nice lady near work, all the hospitable and kind people I’m met along the way. That being said, there are some things I won’t miss, but that were nonetheless a valuable part of the whole experience of living in Ghana.

Thanks to everyone who’s been following my adventures this summer. I hope you enjoyed my blog, and learned something about Ghana along the away.

With much love to everybody,

Amanda

Internship reflection

After over two months abroad, my internship at Ghana Center for Democratic Development (CDD-Ghana) is drawing to a close, and so it’s a good time to look back and think about the projects I’ve done, and what I’ve learned during my internship.

One of the most valuable parts of this summer has been getting to observe the work of a think-tank from the inside. From the outside, it may be easy to write off think-tanks as a waste, or as people just blowing hot air. In working at CDD-Ghana, however, I’ve come to appreciate the amount of hard work, dedication, patience, and research that goes into being on the cutting-edge of democracy issues, and how important think-tanks can be. For example, CDD-Ghana is involved in many exciting, informative projects, such as the Afrobarometer project, where citizens of several African countries were surveyed for their thoughts about government.
I’ve had the opportunity to learn not only about Ghanaian government, but about governance issues in other African countries as well. The summer has also been an illuminating experience due to the research-driven nature of my internship, a big change from jobs I’ve had in the past. My coworkers are amazing, and it’s been wonderful to work with so many accomplished professionals dedicated to the work of improving governance in Africa.

I’ve gotten to work on a variety of projects, exposing me to lots of different legal issues in Ghana and beyond. For example, I prepared an HIV/AIDS anti-stigma training manual to help those is power adopt a human rights approach to HIV/AIDS. I found it fascinating to critique a draft bill about NGOs, pointing out things that should be addressed so that government actions relating to NGOs are more transparent and an improved legal environment for NGOs is created. I’ve gotten to do plenty of research and reading, but still feel like there is so much for me to learn about democracy in Africa.

It’s been an amazing summer. I’m exciting to go home soon, but I’ll treasure the experiences I’ve had here in Ghana. Less than two weeks to go!

Tailors, fufu, and lies that the Lion King taught me

Above: warthogs, a misunderstood hyena, and a nice baboon (with baby! so cute!)

As my time in Ghana draws to a close, I’ve been thinking about things I still want to do before I fly home. Sure, 3 weeks may seem like a lot of time, but put in working, packing up, and many good-byes, and the time will fly by.

Today was one first for me- the first time I’ve ordered a custom tailored outfit. Here is Ghana it’s common to choose your own fabulous fabric and bring it to a tailor. Getting a dress made, not including the fabric, will cost me 10 cedi (less than $8). And luckily, there is a tailor right outside the gate to my house…and two more across the street, should I ever feel like branching out. There is one first encounter I’ve been dreading, and that’s with fufu, a doughy-looking food eaten with stew or soup. I’ve tried a similar food- banku- and wasn’t a big fan. But fried plantains- oh man, I’ll miss those when I go home!

So, onto my beef with the Lion King. First, the movie misrepresents baboons- see my post about Mole National Park. I assumed that all baboons would be jovial creatures who at the worst would hit me playfully on the head with a stick- WRONG- the baboon who stole food was not Rafiki, that’s for sure.

Next, Lion Kings makes it seem like hyenas are despicable creatures- WRONG. I went to Achimoto forest this weekend and saw a spotted hyena that’s part of Ghana’s ongoing animal education/conservation efforts (Accra’s zoo was moved to make room for the new presidential palace, and some animals are still in Accra, while others are in a town a few hours away). This hyena was adorable- his eyes said “please love me- I am so cute”. As my friend said- “how could Disney make a villain out of him!” In Disney’s defense, warthogs do seems like they could be sorta loveable, so they didn’t miss the mark too badly on that I suppose.

Mole National Park: Elephants and those Sneaky Baboons

This past weekend I went up north to Mole National Park, hoping to see enough wildlife to make the incredibly long journey there and back worth it- and I’m happy to say it was a trip well worth taking, and that’s saying a lot, considering just how difficult it was to get there…

I left Accra around 3:30 pm on Thursday, and got to Tamale, a town up north, at around 6 or 7 am Friday morning, after a very long bus ride complete with traffic, road blocks, and cops on board the bus (I guess just in case anything happened along the road). And these cops- like most in Ghana- didn’t have little handguns- they had guns maybe two feet long. Luckily, the bus was comfortable and the road not too bumpy.

The bus from Tamale to Mole, however, was a different matter entirely. I waited in Tamale for the 2 pm bus, which left late, and didn’t get to Mole until maybe around 8 9pm on Friday night! The bus wasn’t as nice as the one from Accra for starters, and much of the journey was on really really bumpy dirt road- so bumpy I wondered how the bus could drive without falling to pieces. There was an exit door towards the back, and I could see it sorta rattling back and forth, looking as though it would fly open at any second!

Next, there weren’t enough seats for everyone, so lots of people had to stand. By the time we were near the end of the journey, they bus was crammed full, with people in the aisle and in the stairwell of the rear door of the bus.

Mole was quite a paradise after such a journey. The place was beautiful, with the park’s hotel set
up on a hill so you could look out and see the landscape below, including elephants near the watering hole. There was a pool and an outdoor restaurant. My room was huge- three beds, and a big bathroom.
Luckily we had two buckets for water that could be filled from a pump or something, because the water wasn’t always on in the room.

Saturday morning I went on a walking safari, reporting time at 6:30 am. Before we actually departed, elephants came up to near where we were meeting, and it was awesome. And then around the corner from the info center, we saw more elephants, maybe 40 or 50 feet away!

The nature walk was great. The guide was armed- Mole has never had any incidents of somebody getting hurt by an animal, and they want that record to stay the way it is. We asked him if he’d even fired his gun before (we were thinking maybe at an animal), and his answer was “Yes. In training.” Fair enough.

The afternoon walk was great too. Our guide had been a guide for eleven years, and we’d be walking, and he’d stop, and you could tell he was looking closely for clues about where the animals were- fresh
droppings, footprints, broken branches. On the walks, I saw bushboks and waterboks and monkeys and warthogs. You could see animals looking right at you from far off, then they’d dart away, or sometimes not care and go about their business.

The animals were beautiful- except I a problem with one of them. It all started at dinner on Saturday- my friend and I were sitting outside, on the restaurant porch. I had ordered dinner, and she had brought some snacks, including a new package of onion-flavored crackers that she told me were a favorite snack of hers. It was dark out already, and the restaurant was quite busy- lots of people eating, including people sitting on the pool deck, which is closest to the forest.

We were sitting and talking when, in my friend’s words, she saw a “hairy little arm reach up to the table.” Turning to look, she sees a 50-70 pound baboon trying to steal the whole cartoon of crackers. Rather
than darting away once my friend noticed its presence, the baboon persisted in trying to grab the crackers. We jumped out of our seats, and she tried to scare it away, but that baboon did not care- it was huge, and it was taking her crackers no matter what.

A waitress rushed over, grabbing my friend’s chair, jabbing it in the direction of the thief to make it go away- it ran down a few steps to pool area, the waitress running after it with the chair, and it then ran away, went around to the other side of the pool and sat out there in the open (or that might have been a second baboon) and then ran away. Wow, talk about intense. After, we just sat there, kinda stunned.

Now I’m back in Accra, with less than a month until I’m back in the States. Goodness, how the time flies. At least in Accra I don’t have to worry about baboons stealing my food.

Let's Make a Deal

One exciting part of living in Ghana is negotiating prices- while some things like food from fruit vendors is pretty much not worth haggling about, in other situations negotiating is more acceptable.

For example, taxi fares should be negotiated before you get in the car, and I’ve found it’s really helpful to make sure you and the driver are 100% on the same page about the price. For example, you might suggest a price- maybe 5 cedi, he’ll say 6 cedi, you’ll say 5 again, and then he’ll say “let’s go.” To me, that would seem to mean “we’ve agreed on 5 cedi.” But not so fast- when I clarified with the driver that 5 cedi was indeed the agreed price, he then tried to say we should give him 6 cedi!

Unfortunately, unless you have a good bearing on what is a fair price or the usual price, or pay close attention to financial exchanges, there’s the potential to pay too much for things, perhaps because you don’t know any better. Luckily, there are plenty of situations where Ghanaians have your back, and want to make sure you are treated fairly. For example, sometimes on the tro-tro you might not receive the correct change, and while you might not notice, others passengers will step in and make sure you get the correct amount.

Just this past week, I stopped at a stall to buy a container of Q-tips, and when I asked how much it was, the man seemed to at first say 1 cedi, then say 1.5 cedi. Suddenly, a woman who also works there comes over and clarifies that 1 cedi is the correct price, in a tone that somewhat suggested that he knew what the right price was all along. I certainly appreciated her stepping in, and it’s nice to know that in situations like that, people have got my back!

Gardens, Independence, and Lost Soccer Dreams

Okay, so I’ve got to acknowledge the obvious- my beloved Black Stars are out of the World Cup. Not only that, we lost on penalty kicks, after extended play. AND perhaps the Uruguay team could benefit from a lesson that only goalies can use their hands to block goals. Do I sound bitter? Maybe a little, but I think that’s allowed at this stage in the World Cup.

But life goes on in Ghana, despite hopes of winning the Cup having been destroyed. And there’s good reason to be happy regardless- it’s a (U.S.) holiday weekend! Well, about that…I didn’t really do anything to celebrate Independence Day. Word on the street is that the U.S. Embassy hosted a 4^th of July Party, but nobody picked up when I called (perhaps they were all outside enjoying a Budweiser?).

So instead, as I write this, I am enjoying a bowl of soup. And yes, I did realize that it’s weird to make soup when it’s so hot out.

On Saturday I took a visit to Aburi Botanical Gardens (see pictures above), home to some amazingly tall trees, beautiful flowers, an old helicopter (I don’t know why), and lizards. The drive there and back was memorable- at times on a bumpy dirt road littered with potholes, and at others on a winding road through the hills. Sometimes I got lost in the scenery- and other times felt like I should hold on for dear life! It was nice to get out of Accra for a bit, and enjoy some nature!

Parliament: No offices…but you have an internet café!

Today I visited Ghana’s Parliament. Sitting in on Parliament in session, one of the first things I noticed was how few Members of Parliament (MPs) were present- maybe around 10%. Granted, MPs were talking about projects/programs and responding to related questions from other MPs, and no voting took place while I watched- perhaps if there was voting, more would have been there.

Also, the “Madame Speaker” seemed to be the subject of great respect. Whenever she was about to sit in her chair up on a platform at the front of the chamber, a man would appear to not only help push in the chair, but also adjust a red pillow for her back. Microphone too far from her face? Not to fear- the same guy made sure to reappear and bend it slightly closer to her face for her. Also, I noticed the she would be bowed to sometimes, like if a person walked toward the center of the chamber.

After leaving the main chamber, we visited the library. Considering that this is the national legislative body, I was expecting something grander that what I saw- a single room with about 15 computers and a wall or two of books, maybe ten feet by 30 feet. However, Ghana’s MPs may be especially in need of a great library because- and here’s what really surprised me- they don’t have offices.

Yeah, that’s right, and lowly law student intern at an NGO can be given space in an office, but MPs aren’t given a place to call their own. Also, MPs aren’t given their own staff, or even a regional office. As anybody who’s been lost in an “office shuffle” and been desk-less can attest to, not having your own space can be downright challenging and frustrating. Call me crazy, but if these are the people representing a whole nation, they should at least have a space for themselves, or to put their cup of coffee. Oh wait, they DO have a place to put their coffee- there is an internet café within the building that MPs could use. But still, that’s not the same as a permanent desk.

Luckily, right behind one of the current Parliament buildings, a HUGE new building is being constructed- and word is this one will have offices for MPs.Today I visited Ghana’s Parliament. Sitting in on Parliament in session, one of the first things I noticed was how few Members of Parliament (MPs) were present- maybe around 10%. Granted, MPs were talking about projects/programs and responding to related questions from other MPs, and no voting took place while I watched- perhaps if there was voting, more would have been there.

Also, the “Madame Speaker” seemed to be the subject of great respect. Whenever she was about to sit in her chair up on a platform at the front of the chamber, a man would appear to not only help push in the chair, but also adjust a red pillow for her back. Microphone too far from her face? Not to fear- the same guy made sure to reappear and bend it slightly closer to her face for her. Also, I noticed the she would be bowed to sometimes, like if a person walked toward the center of the chamber.

After leaving the main chamber, we visited the library. Considering that this is the national legislative body, I was expecting something grander that what I saw- a single room with about 15 computers and a wall or two of books, maybe ten feet by 30 feet. However, Ghana’s MPs may be especially in need of a great library because- and here’s what really surprised me- they don’t have offices.

Yeah, that’s right, and lowly law student intern at an NGO can be given space in an office, but MPs aren’t given a place to call their own. Also, MPs aren’t given their own staff, or even a regional office. As anybody who’s been lost in an “office shuffle” and been desk-less can attest to, not having your own space can be downright challenging and frustrating. Call me crazy, but if these are the people representing a whole nation, they should at least have a space for themselves, or to put their cup of coffee. Oh wait, they DO have a place to put their coffee- there is an internet café within the building that MPs could use. But still, that’s not the same as a permanent desk.

Luckily, right behind one of the current Parliament buildings, a HUGE new building is being constructed- and word is this one will have offices for MPs.

Recycling please!

For the record, if you don’t want to hear me get on my environmental soapbox, then skip this post. I’m giving you fair warning. Still with me? Okay, good.

One of the things I love about NYU is that the school takes the challenge of being “green” very seriously- you can recycle all plastics, metals, and papers, and can compost food waste. Ghana’s environmental and sanitation difficulties offer a startling contrast to how easy it was to be “green” at school.

For starters, it’s downright difficult to find a trash can in public. This means that a lot of trash ends up on the ground, with the most noticeable item of litter being the plastic bags that contain drinking water. The trash can accumulate on beaches and in the open sewer system common throughout the city- these sewer canals, maybe about a foot wide, sometimes with grates or other coverings and other times open, also often appear to have stagnate water, and are even used as a urinal for guys to pee in public. I don’t think I’ve seen a recycling can since I’ve been here. At work, there’s not paper recycling that I’ve seen.

One positive environmental trend I’ve noticed is that many drinks come in glass bottles, and I’ve seen empty bottles get collected afterwards into a crate, perhaps to be reused in some way. The use of glass bottles might help keep beverage prices low- a bottle of soda is typically cheaper here than an aluminum can of soda.

So please, if you are reading this post in a part of world that does have easy access to recycling, take advantage of it! Okay, I'll get off my soapbox...for now.

And the crowd goes wild...

Could you hear that sound last night? It was the sound of all of Ghana celebrating after an amazing game against the U.S. This time I showed up early to a popular Ghana sports bar to sit outside and enjoy the game (actually got to sit down!). Here are some highlights:

-Me and a few other Americans in the crowd bravely standing during the US national anthem. I expected the Ghanaians to stand for theirs, and I would have stood as well, but they didn’t stand. Maybe it’s just an American thing.

-The huge video screen projecting the game cut out around minute 6 (cue massive discontent in the crowd), so I missed seeing the first goal, but it was back up running a few minutes later- potential riot avoided.

-US scores a goal and the crown goes…completely silent. Guess that’s better than massive booing.

-Ghana wins, and this random Ghanaian guy grabs me and lifts me up in the air in celebration. Being there for the win was a great moment.

At the risk of being told that I hate freedom and all that American stands for, I’m super excited to see Ghana go to the next round- they’re the only African team still in, and it’d be awesome for them to take the whole thing. Go Black Stars!

Reflections after a month in Ghana, and no, I still haven’t tried Banku or Fufu

It’s hard to believe that about a month ago I hopped on a plane to come to Ghana- it feels like so much has happened since then, and I’m not even at the half-way point yet. Regardless, it’s a good time for reflecting on my trip so far.

Lesson One: It’s okay to indulge in some familiar comforts…

Adjusting to a living in another country can be difficult enough, and even though it’s good to immerse yourself in new things, there’s nothing wrong with letting yourself have a little taste of home. For example, dairy really isn’t big here, and can be a little pricey, but depriving myself of cheese for 2.5 months, when I love it so much, would probably not accomplish a whole lot. Sure, I would be VERY thankful for cheese when I got home, but it’s possible to be thankful even while still indulging in some cheese here I think.

Lesson Two: …but don’t isolate yourself in a “Western Bubble”

It’s totally possible to only take taxis, frequent only the mall and foreigner hotspots, and avoid Ghanaian food entirely- but if that’s the case, then I sort of wonder what’s the point of coming to Ghana in the first place. In the end, I try to have a balance of the familiar and the new. Plus, you never know what new “favorite things” you’ll find (like plantains with hot pepper sauce!).

Lesson Three: The journey is always better with friends

When I first arrived, the hardest part was not having any travelers with me to share in the experience of adjusting to a new culture. While family was just a phone call away, it’s not the same as having somebody there with you. I’ve been really fortunate to meet a lot of law students, who, like me, are new to the country, and up for having some adventures. We share our frustrations and our thoughts about living here. They are a huge source of comfort and sanity for me here.

Lesson Four: Some things (including office dynamics) don’t really change across cultures

There really are things that can be universal, that no matter where you go, someone in your position is going to experience, whether it’s men trying to get your phone number or the interactions of coworkers trying to meet deadlines, finish lots of projects, etc.

Lesson Five: Be prepared

Okay, I know that’s the Boy Scout motto, but it definitely holds true here. For example, the rains here can get fierce pretty quickly, and after a disastrous walk home, I’ve learned to bring a plastic bag, and an extra bag, and an umbrella with me just in case. Today I wore sneakers to work- with a dress (fashion horror!)- since it was raining and muddy (don’t worry fashionistas, I changed into sandals at work). If you have stuff to do on the internet, be prepared mentally for it taking 4 times longer than it would at home (or even worse!) so that you have the patience to go through 3 emails in half an hour (the internet difficulties partly explain why I haven’t updated this blog more often).

One more note: Saturday is the US v. Ghana soccer game- should be an interesting weekend to be an American in Ghana!

This weekend I went to Volta, an area a few hours east of Accra by bus. The pictured above is me in front of the lower falls at Wli waterfall, before going through a really intense uphill hike to the upper falls, which were very beautiful and made the hike totally worth it.

Also, you can see me and some of my Canadian-friends-found-in-Ghana in some dresses we bought in Hohoe (pronounced sort of like Ahoy), where we stayed for the weekend.

On Sunday we took a tro-tro from Hohoe to Ho (say that 5 times fast!), and toured the village of Helekpe, where we saw some weaving and drumming. The young man pictured above learned how to weave years ago, and he works the loom with his hands and feet- it was amazing how quickly he could move the spools of thread back and forth. Puts to shame the pot-holders I would weave as a kid on my little square plastic loom.

Tro-tros!

Up to now, I’ve sort of mentioned tro-tros, but it’s about time to give them a fuller explanation. A tro-tro is a passenger van commonly used for public transportation. Common features:

-Maximize space! Each tro-tro may have 3 to 4 rows of seats, holding 3 to 4 people per row. Also, seats fold out into the narrow aisle, so if somebody in the far corner of the back row has to get out, well, then a lot of other people have to get off, then get back on to accommodate that person.

-One person drives, while another person operates the sliding side door (and often the side door has problems closing), collects money from passengers and yells out to pedestrians what direction we’re going in.

-It’s great when the tro-tro has a sign on the dashboard, because sometimes it’s hard to tell where they’re going, and you have to get used to the different locations. For example, the location “Circle” (referring to Nkrumah Circle) often turns into someone yelling what sounds like “Circ Circ Circ Circ”.

-Riding in style: Some tro-tros are decked out with flags or other flair inside, or even ultraviolet lights. Many have some sort of saying written on the back window, usually a religious saying.

-Hold on tight: driving in Accra can be crazy, and vehicles seem like they’re always trying to gain that extra inch and get that much further ahead. The amount of honking is insane, and I think a lot of it is warning honks to alert anyone one around you to watch out, here I come!

Up to now, I’ve sort of mentioned tro-tros, but it’s about time to give them a fuller explanation. A tro-tro is a passenger van commonly used for public transportation. Common features:

-Maximize space! Each tro-tro may have 3 to 4 rows of seats, holding 3 to 4 people per row. Also, seats fold out into the narrow aisle, so if somebody in the far corner of the back row has to get out, well, then a lot of other people have to get off, then get back on to accommodate that person.

-One person drives, while another person operates the sliding side door (and often the side door has problems closing), collects money from passengers and yells out to pedestrians what direction we’re going in.

-It’s great when the tro-tro has a sign on the dashboard, because sometimes it’s hard to tell where they’re going, and you have to get used to the different locations. For example, the location “Circle” (referring to Nkrumah Circle) often turns into someone yelling what sounds like “Circ Circ Circ Circ”.

-Riding in style: Some tro-tros are decked out with flags or other flair inside, or even ultraviolet lights. Many have some sort of saying written on the back window, usually a religious saying.

-Hold on tight: driving in Accra can be crazy, and vehicles seem like they’re always trying to gain that extra inch and get that much further ahead. The amount of honking is insane, and I think a lot of it is warning honks to alert anyone one around you to watch out, here I come!

Amanda meets World Cup Fever

I have a confession that could get me kicked out of Ghana- I’m not a big soccer fan, or a huge sports fan in general, for that matter. Don’t get me wrong, events like the World Cup are wonderful, but I doubt I’ll be watching that many matches on TV. Even so, it’s interesting to note how World Cup fever has taken over Accra.

First, it seems like there are no limits to the place where TVs are to watch soccer. Road-side bars- check. Little stalls food- check. Even in the midst of trash piles and utter poverty, you can find a TV and lots of people crowding around captivated.

My dad commented that when they show the game on TV, you often hear a buzzing sound in the background. The culprit- terrible noisemakers. One kind I’ve seen around here are long plastic horns that are really annoying when blown into your face. But even worse are these little plastic ones about a few inches long, that sound like a combination of a baby crying and a duck. Whoever came up with them should be sent to Antarctica.

The picture above is a celebration in my part of Accra after the Ghana win on Sunday. UConn, where I went to undergrad, had a reputation for celebrating sport victories, I don’t think it compares to the collective joy and festivity in the air of Accra after victory for the Black Stars. Go Ghana!

Ostrich bites don’t hurt- allegedly

During the weekend I went to Cape Coast, a few hours bus ride away from Accra. I’ve heard it said it’s good to get out of Accra now and then, and I see why- it was refreshing to see the beautiful landscape, the amazing foliage, and get away from city living for a bit.

One of the best parts was the canopy walk in Kakum National Park. Imagine a bridge composed of a narrow ladder with a wooden board on top, and netting up the sides, suspended high above the forest floor, and so much foliage you can’t even see the ground. It was very thrilling, and very beautiful.

We also went to a ostrich farm, and I got to feed them, a.k.a. very nervously hold a long branch with leaves as three ostriches very quickly snapped at the leaves, while I tried not to get bitten. Allegedly, if they nip you it doesn’t hurt, but I didn’t want to find out if this was true. Ostriches are impressive creatures that up close are really intimidating and seem like they could seriously hurt you if they wanted to, especially with their huge legs that look like they came from a dinosaur in Jurassic Park.

Oh, and did I forget to mention that Ghana’s soccer team WON ON SUNDAY! There was some serious celebrating in Accra- people in the streets, dancing, cheering on the bus I was on, etc. I wonder what it’ll be like if Ghana wins another game!

“I’ll give you ten cedi to cross that puddle”

Wow, today I significantly underestimated the crazy power of the rainy season. On the way home from work, a light sprinkle turned into a torrential downpour that brought traffic to a glacial pace, and flooded parts of the roads.

Luckily, I had my umbrella, and tried to roll up my pants legs, but it was no match for the normally-pleasant five-minute walk from where the tro-tro drops me off to my house. By the time I got home, my dress pants were soaked, with one leg down and other still rolled up, and I had tried in vain to use my umbrella to protect my backpack instead of my head.

I walked in the door to discover that part of the roof was leaking, and frantically told two of the guys who work on the property. I went back inside, and then went back out to find one of the guys peeing off the porch I’m pretty sure (can’t peeing wait until AFTER we dry my floor?!). My laundry bin was able to help catch the leak, and luckily, the rains have slowed down, but now I’m left wondering what will happen the next time it rains.

Time for Fashion! And time for the animals to be quiet

Picture above: my room at my new place!

It feels like the past few days I have been settling into life at my new place- doing laundry in a huge plastic bowl in the shower, figuring out how to light a gas stove with a match, and getting used to the chickens/roosters nearby waking me up in the wee hours of the morning.

This week I might try to buy a dress for Ghanaian-wear Friday at work. There is a seamstress who has a shop right outside my house, and if I bring her some fabric she will sew me a dress for 10 cedi (about $8). Get ready Accra, Amanda is about to hit the fashion scene.

Moving out, African-Wear Fridays, and My (Almost) Carrie Bradshaw Moments

Pictures above: A great business name; picture of Oxford Street, which is near my new place.

The past week has been full of excitement and change-

On Monday I started my job at Ghana Center for Democratic Development, an NGO that focuses on government accountability and democratic development in Ghana. The office has about 30 people working there in all, and seems like it has a very strong reputation for the work it does. They’ve already given me quite a bit of work, such as researching answers to a 12 page questionnaire about different facets of Ghanaian government. In the US, while many places have “casual Fridays”, CDD-Ghana has “Africa-Wear Fridays”, which means you can wear more traditional African clothes. I unfortunately don’t have African wear, so maybe they’ll let me wear jeans on Fridays instead.

There are a few interns there, and one of them just completed her first year of law school, like me! I have to admit, one of the hardest things about the first few days was not really having any friends to talk to who were also new to the country, so having her around to chat with has been wonderful. And it turns out she lives in Osu, which brings me to my next point…

On Tuesday evening I moved out of the hotel and to Osu, a part of Accra which is close to the coast, and a much easier commute to work. To get from work to the hotel was taking me around 1.5 hours, and that included going part way by taxi because I got so fed up with it tro-tros. Now the commute is an hour or less, and more relaxing.

Also, Osu is more of an upscale area compared to where I was staying. There are some ridiculously overpriced grocery stores ($8 for a bottle of salad dressing!), shops, and restaurants. There are also the same sort of street vendors that seem to be common everywhere around in Accra.

One thing that continues to boggle my mind is how a very upscale economy exists alongside a very inexpensive business sector. For example, it’s not at all uncommon for there to be a very new, well lit, air-conditioned store, and then right next door or across the street there is a small shack, maybe on a concrete slab, selling food, or even just a simple stall or table with fruit laid out. I could go to Mama Mia- an Italian restaurant near my new house- and get pizza for $16 (and it’s not even that big of a pizza!), or I could go to a street vendor and get a delicious lunch or dinner for around $2. The combination of rich and poorer, right next to each other, is thought-provoking.

I heard it would be the rainy season, and now I’m starting to appreciate what that means. Depending on the area of town, when the rains come, traveling can be messier since a lot of areas are simply dirt, and walking becomes a muddy mess. Also, lots of potholes = lots of puddles just waiting for a tro-tro to come by and splash you as you’re walking. As Sex and the City fans know, the show opens with Carrie Bradshaw (Sarah Jessica Parker) walking in Manhattan and getting sprayed with water as a bus drives by a puddle. Luckily, I have yet to meet a similar fate.

Good thing "Amen" is the same in any language...

Pictures above: candy stall near my hotel, and market near Central Accra.

I’ve been to my fair share of churches before, but going to church this morning with two young women I had met the day before was quite a different experience...

We walked into the church- a cement building with fans, and blinking lights strung up- sometime before 10:30 am, and service didn’t end until around 1pm. Most of the service wasn’t in English, so often I didn't know what was being said. One thing that really stood out to me as unique was the offering- two rounds of offering where everyone went up front to drop money in a box, and then someone would call out different amounts, and people who wanted to given that amount, in addition, would go up and throw money in the bucket. There was also lots of singing, a sermon, communion, praying, and some baptisms. People were very kind to me there, and said that I was welcome to come back again in the future.

After church, the two women offered to take me to their house nearby. We walked into an old-looking, one story building, into a dark hallway, and into the first room on the right- I was immediately taken aback by what I saw. The walls were dingy and baren; clothes and belonging were stored in suitcases, plastic bags, and a closet; as I sat on the simple bed, covered by a cotton sheet, my mind flashed back to my hotel room- cheerful yellow walls, a TV, my own bathroom. I was simply stunned by the contrast, and didn’t know what to say.

Wow, a lot to think about and let sink in as this weekend comes to an end…

Jollof Rice, Commando, and…Living Snails?

Yesterday, I bit off more than I could chew, and so today I decided to keep it simple: see Central Accra. There were some tall buildings, but they paled in comparison to the hustle and bustle of the seemingly endless stalls, stores and sellers- I walked for about 2 hours, and I’m sure I didn’t see everything.

Local cuisine: I had trouble finding anywhere to sit down and eat, so I ate on the go, getting some small bananas (from the lady in the bottom picture), grounds nuts (sort of like peanuts out of the shell), and drinking from a fresh coconut (see top picture)! Some other local treats I saw but didn’t eat: lots of fish, vegetables I couldn’t identify, and some sort of snail/shelled ocean creature- and I’m pretty sure I saw one still moving around!

Night life: The past few nights, once the sun’s gone down, I’ve stayed at the hotel. Tonight, I decided to be more adventurous, and ventured out on my own, on a search for jollof rice, which is rice mixed with red stuff, and it’s kinda spicy. I got mine with some pieces of beef, for a grand total of 80 cents.

TV and Movies: Coming to Ghana, I left behind my beloved trashy reality television, but thanks to the TV in my room at the hotel, I’ve gotten a taste of Ghanian television entertainment. Ghana has its own television stations, and a film industry, but also Nigerian and other African shows/films are popular- movie titles include “Commando” (I think it’s about someone in the military, and likely has nothing to do with the American meaning of the word!) and “Hot Fork”. As I write this, X-Men: the Last Stand is on TV; other US imports include Friends and CSI: Miami.

House Hunters: Ghana Edition

Well, if yesterday was a gentle intro to Ghana, today was a sort of crash course.
Today I set out find long-term summer housing, something I’ve never really done in the US, let alone in a new country. Not only that, I was determined to go on my own, braving public transportation. The first tro-tro (mini-bus) I got into made it all seem deceptively easy- I simply made a circle motion with my finger, signaling I wanted to go to Nkwame Circle.

After that, a significant portion of my day was spent trying to figure out which tro-tro to use- most tro-tros don’t have signs showing their destination, so it can be a bit overwhelming having repeatedly ask where they are going, and half the time not being able to understand one another’s accents.

One of the most challenging parts of walking around is that I get a lot of attention constantly, 97% from Ghanian men. They will shout out to me- “my wife”, “white man”, “Gloria” being some of the more unique name’s I’ve received. And many are quite persistent- they will grab your arm, or try to walk with you, repeatedly asking questions.

But good news- I did find housing, and I did make it back to my hotel, so maybe not too bad for a day’s work, and only my second day here.

Arrival and First Day

Hello from Accra! As some of you know, I am spending the summer working at an NGO called Ghana Center for Democratic Development. I figured a blog would be a good way to keep lots of people up to date at the same time about my adventures here. Feel free to comment below, or email/facebook me if you have any specific questions, or just want to say hi!

After an 11 hour flight from New York, I arrived in Accra around 8am local time (4am at home), and was getting settled in my hotel by around 10am. Driving there, I was struck by how flat the country is (what a contrast to Cape Town, with Table Mountain, where I studied abroad as an undergrad).

The people at the hotel are so nice and hospitable (which, I have repeatedly been told since coming here, is a wonderful trait of Ghanians). The crazy traffic with lots of taxis and tro-tros (mini-busses), and crowded markets, people speaking in a variety of languages, can be a bit overwhelming, but luckily a hotel employee (himself a student) has been very helpful in showing me around, getting me a phone, etc.

After lunch and a much-needed nap, I want for a walk on my own to get a better sense of the area- lots of shops, stalls, selling everything from cell phone minutes to bags full of water to refrigerators. Tomorrow I'm going to try to navigate public transportation on my own, keeping in mind the hand signals that I've learned are used to signal where you are going. Though it’s raining cats and dogs right now, hopefully tomorrow will be a beautiful day