Recycling please!

For the record, if you don’t want to hear me get on my environmental soapbox, then skip this post. I’m giving you fair warning. Still with me? Okay, good.

One of the things I love about NYU is that the school takes the challenge of being “green” very seriously- you can recycle all plastics, metals, and papers, and can compost food waste. Ghana’s environmental and sanitation difficulties offer a startling contrast to how easy it was to be “green” at school.

For starters, it’s downright difficult to find a trash can in public. This means that a lot of trash ends up on the ground, with the most noticeable item of litter being the plastic bags that contain drinking water. The trash can accumulate on beaches and in the open sewer system common throughout the city- these sewer canals, maybe about a foot wide, sometimes with grates or other coverings and other times open, also often appear to have stagnate water, and are even used as a urinal for guys to pee in public. I don’t think I’ve seen a recycling can since I’ve been here. At work, there’s not paper recycling that I’ve seen.

One positive environmental trend I’ve noticed is that many drinks come in glass bottles, and I’ve seen empty bottles get collected afterwards into a crate, perhaps to be reused in some way. The use of glass bottles might help keep beverage prices low- a bottle of soda is typically cheaper here than an aluminum can of soda.

So please, if you are reading this post in a part of world that does have easy access to recycling, take advantage of it! Okay, I'll get off my soapbox...for now.

And the crowd goes wild...

Could you hear that sound last night? It was the sound of all of Ghana celebrating after an amazing game against the U.S. This time I showed up early to a popular Ghana sports bar to sit outside and enjoy the game (actually got to sit down!). Here are some highlights:

-Me and a few other Americans in the crowd bravely standing during the US national anthem. I expected the Ghanaians to stand for theirs, and I would have stood as well, but they didn’t stand. Maybe it’s just an American thing.

-The huge video screen projecting the game cut out around minute 6 (cue massive discontent in the crowd), so I missed seeing the first goal, but it was back up running a few minutes later- potential riot avoided.

-US scores a goal and the crown goes…completely silent. Guess that’s better than massive booing.

-Ghana wins, and this random Ghanaian guy grabs me and lifts me up in the air in celebration. Being there for the win was a great moment.

At the risk of being told that I hate freedom and all that American stands for, I’m super excited to see Ghana go to the next round- they’re the only African team still in, and it’d be awesome for them to take the whole thing. Go Black Stars!

Reflections after a month in Ghana, and no, I still haven’t tried Banku or Fufu

It’s hard to believe that about a month ago I hopped on a plane to come to Ghana- it feels like so much has happened since then, and I’m not even at the half-way point yet. Regardless, it’s a good time for reflecting on my trip so far.

Lesson One: It’s okay to indulge in some familiar comforts…

Adjusting to a living in another country can be difficult enough, and even though it’s good to immerse yourself in new things, there’s nothing wrong with letting yourself have a little taste of home. For example, dairy really isn’t big here, and can be a little pricey, but depriving myself of cheese for 2.5 months, when I love it so much, would probably not accomplish a whole lot. Sure, I would be VERY thankful for cheese when I got home, but it’s possible to be thankful even while still indulging in some cheese here I think.

Lesson Two: …but don’t isolate yourself in a “Western Bubble”

It’s totally possible to only take taxis, frequent only the mall and foreigner hotspots, and avoid Ghanaian food entirely- but if that’s the case, then I sort of wonder what’s the point of coming to Ghana in the first place. In the end, I try to have a balance of the familiar and the new. Plus, you never know what new “favorite things” you’ll find (like plantains with hot pepper sauce!).

Lesson Three: The journey is always better with friends

When I first arrived, the hardest part was not having any travelers with me to share in the experience of adjusting to a new culture. While family was just a phone call away, it’s not the same as having somebody there with you. I’ve been really fortunate to meet a lot of law students, who, like me, are new to the country, and up for having some adventures. We share our frustrations and our thoughts about living here. They are a huge source of comfort and sanity for me here.

Lesson Four: Some things (including office dynamics) don’t really change across cultures

There really are things that can be universal, that no matter where you go, someone in your position is going to experience, whether it’s men trying to get your phone number or the interactions of coworkers trying to meet deadlines, finish lots of projects, etc.

Lesson Five: Be prepared

Okay, I know that’s the Boy Scout motto, but it definitely holds true here. For example, the rains here can get fierce pretty quickly, and after a disastrous walk home, I’ve learned to bring a plastic bag, and an extra bag, and an umbrella with me just in case. Today I wore sneakers to work- with a dress (fashion horror!)- since it was raining and muddy (don’t worry fashionistas, I changed into sandals at work). If you have stuff to do on the internet, be prepared mentally for it taking 4 times longer than it would at home (or even worse!) so that you have the patience to go through 3 emails in half an hour (the internet difficulties partly explain why I haven’t updated this blog more often).

One more note: Saturday is the US v. Ghana soccer game- should be an interesting weekend to be an American in Ghana!

This weekend I went to Volta, an area a few hours east of Accra by bus. The pictured above is me in front of the lower falls at Wli waterfall, before going through a really intense uphill hike to the upper falls, which were very beautiful and made the hike totally worth it.

Also, you can see me and some of my Canadian-friends-found-in-Ghana in some dresses we bought in Hohoe (pronounced sort of like Ahoy), where we stayed for the weekend.

On Sunday we took a tro-tro from Hohoe to Ho (say that 5 times fast!), and toured the village of Helekpe, where we saw some weaving and drumming. The young man pictured above learned how to weave years ago, and he works the loom with his hands and feet- it was amazing how quickly he could move the spools of thread back and forth. Puts to shame the pot-holders I would weave as a kid on my little square plastic loom.

Tro-tros!

Up to now, I’ve sort of mentioned tro-tros, but it’s about time to give them a fuller explanation. A tro-tro is a passenger van commonly used for public transportation. Common features:

-Maximize space! Each tro-tro may have 3 to 4 rows of seats, holding 3 to 4 people per row. Also, seats fold out into the narrow aisle, so if somebody in the far corner of the back row has to get out, well, then a lot of other people have to get off, then get back on to accommodate that person.

-One person drives, while another person operates the sliding side door (and often the side door has problems closing), collects money from passengers and yells out to pedestrians what direction we’re going in.

-It’s great when the tro-tro has a sign on the dashboard, because sometimes it’s hard to tell where they’re going, and you have to get used to the different locations. For example, the location “Circle” (referring to Nkrumah Circle) often turns into someone yelling what sounds like “Circ Circ Circ Circ”.

-Riding in style: Some tro-tros are decked out with flags or other flair inside, or even ultraviolet lights. Many have some sort of saying written on the back window, usually a religious saying.

-Hold on tight: driving in Accra can be crazy, and vehicles seem like they’re always trying to gain that extra inch and get that much further ahead. The amount of honking is insane, and I think a lot of it is warning honks to alert anyone one around you to watch out, here I come!

Up to now, I’ve sort of mentioned tro-tros, but it’s about time to give them a fuller explanation. A tro-tro is a passenger van commonly used for public transportation. Common features:

-Maximize space! Each tro-tro may have 3 to 4 rows of seats, holding 3 to 4 people per row. Also, seats fold out into the narrow aisle, so if somebody in the far corner of the back row has to get out, well, then a lot of other people have to get off, then get back on to accommodate that person.

-One person drives, while another person operates the sliding side door (and often the side door has problems closing), collects money from passengers and yells out to pedestrians what direction we’re going in.

-It’s great when the tro-tro has a sign on the dashboard, because sometimes it’s hard to tell where they’re going, and you have to get used to the different locations. For example, the location “Circle” (referring to Nkrumah Circle) often turns into someone yelling what sounds like “Circ Circ Circ Circ”.

-Riding in style: Some tro-tros are decked out with flags or other flair inside, or even ultraviolet lights. Many have some sort of saying written on the back window, usually a religious saying.

-Hold on tight: driving in Accra can be crazy, and vehicles seem like they’re always trying to gain that extra inch and get that much further ahead. The amount of honking is insane, and I think a lot of it is warning honks to alert anyone one around you to watch out, here I come!

Amanda meets World Cup Fever

I have a confession that could get me kicked out of Ghana- I’m not a big soccer fan, or a huge sports fan in general, for that matter. Don’t get me wrong, events like the World Cup are wonderful, but I doubt I’ll be watching that many matches on TV. Even so, it’s interesting to note how World Cup fever has taken over Accra.

First, it seems like there are no limits to the place where TVs are to watch soccer. Road-side bars- check. Little stalls food- check. Even in the midst of trash piles and utter poverty, you can find a TV and lots of people crowding around captivated.

My dad commented that when they show the game on TV, you often hear a buzzing sound in the background. The culprit- terrible noisemakers. One kind I’ve seen around here are long plastic horns that are really annoying when blown into your face. But even worse are these little plastic ones about a few inches long, that sound like a combination of a baby crying and a duck. Whoever came up with them should be sent to Antarctica.

The picture above is a celebration in my part of Accra after the Ghana win on Sunday. UConn, where I went to undergrad, had a reputation for celebrating sport victories, I don’t think it compares to the collective joy and festivity in the air of Accra after victory for the Black Stars. Go Ghana!

Ostrich bites don’t hurt- allegedly

During the weekend I went to Cape Coast, a few hours bus ride away from Accra. I’ve heard it said it’s good to get out of Accra now and then, and I see why- it was refreshing to see the beautiful landscape, the amazing foliage, and get away from city living for a bit.

One of the best parts was the canopy walk in Kakum National Park. Imagine a bridge composed of a narrow ladder with a wooden board on top, and netting up the sides, suspended high above the forest floor, and so much foliage you can’t even see the ground. It was very thrilling, and very beautiful.

We also went to a ostrich farm, and I got to feed them, a.k.a. very nervously hold a long branch with leaves as three ostriches very quickly snapped at the leaves, while I tried not to get bitten. Allegedly, if they nip you it doesn’t hurt, but I didn’t want to find out if this was true. Ostriches are impressive creatures that up close are really intimidating and seem like they could seriously hurt you if they wanted to, especially with their huge legs that look like they came from a dinosaur in Jurassic Park.

Oh, and did I forget to mention that Ghana’s soccer team WON ON SUNDAY! There was some serious celebrating in Accra- people in the streets, dancing, cheering on the bus I was on, etc. I wonder what it’ll be like if Ghana wins another game!

“I’ll give you ten cedi to cross that puddle”

Wow, today I significantly underestimated the crazy power of the rainy season. On the way home from work, a light sprinkle turned into a torrential downpour that brought traffic to a glacial pace, and flooded parts of the roads.

Luckily, I had my umbrella, and tried to roll up my pants legs, but it was no match for the normally-pleasant five-minute walk from where the tro-tro drops me off to my house. By the time I got home, my dress pants were soaked, with one leg down and other still rolled up, and I had tried in vain to use my umbrella to protect my backpack instead of my head.

I walked in the door to discover that part of the roof was leaking, and frantically told two of the guys who work on the property. I went back inside, and then went back out to find one of the guys peeing off the porch I’m pretty sure (can’t peeing wait until AFTER we dry my floor?!). My laundry bin was able to help catch the leak, and luckily, the rains have slowed down, but now I’m left wondering what will happen the next time it rains.

Time for Fashion! And time for the animals to be quiet

Picture above: my room at my new place!

It feels like the past few days I have been settling into life at my new place- doing laundry in a huge plastic bowl in the shower, figuring out how to light a gas stove with a match, and getting used to the chickens/roosters nearby waking me up in the wee hours of the morning.

This week I might try to buy a dress for Ghanaian-wear Friday at work. There is a seamstress who has a shop right outside my house, and if I bring her some fabric she will sew me a dress for 10 cedi (about $8). Get ready Accra, Amanda is about to hit the fashion scene.

Moving out, African-Wear Fridays, and My (Almost) Carrie Bradshaw Moments

Pictures above: A great business name; picture of Oxford Street, which is near my new place.

The past week has been full of excitement and change-

On Monday I started my job at Ghana Center for Democratic Development, an NGO that focuses on government accountability and democratic development in Ghana. The office has about 30 people working there in all, and seems like it has a very strong reputation for the work it does. They’ve already given me quite a bit of work, such as researching answers to a 12 page questionnaire about different facets of Ghanaian government. In the US, while many places have “casual Fridays”, CDD-Ghana has “Africa-Wear Fridays”, which means you can wear more traditional African clothes. I unfortunately don’t have African wear, so maybe they’ll let me wear jeans on Fridays instead.

There are a few interns there, and one of them just completed her first year of law school, like me! I have to admit, one of the hardest things about the first few days was not really having any friends to talk to who were also new to the country, so having her around to chat with has been wonderful. And it turns out she lives in Osu, which brings me to my next point…

On Tuesday evening I moved out of the hotel and to Osu, a part of Accra which is close to the coast, and a much easier commute to work. To get from work to the hotel was taking me around 1.5 hours, and that included going part way by taxi because I got so fed up with it tro-tros. Now the commute is an hour or less, and more relaxing.

Also, Osu is more of an upscale area compared to where I was staying. There are some ridiculously overpriced grocery stores ($8 for a bottle of salad dressing!), shops, and restaurants. There are also the same sort of street vendors that seem to be common everywhere around in Accra.

One thing that continues to boggle my mind is how a very upscale economy exists alongside a very inexpensive business sector. For example, it’s not at all uncommon for there to be a very new, well lit, air-conditioned store, and then right next door or across the street there is a small shack, maybe on a concrete slab, selling food, or even just a simple stall or table with fruit laid out. I could go to Mama Mia- an Italian restaurant near my new house- and get pizza for $16 (and it’s not even that big of a pizza!), or I could go to a street vendor and get a delicious lunch or dinner for around $2. The combination of rich and poorer, right next to each other, is thought-provoking.

I heard it would be the rainy season, and now I’m starting to appreciate what that means. Depending on the area of town, when the rains come, traveling can be messier since a lot of areas are simply dirt, and walking becomes a muddy mess. Also, lots of potholes = lots of puddles just waiting for a tro-tro to come by and splash you as you’re walking. As Sex and the City fans know, the show opens with Carrie Bradshaw (Sarah Jessica Parker) walking in Manhattan and getting sprayed with water as a bus drives by a puddle. Luckily, I have yet to meet a similar fate.